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Bemidji to Big Bog

Eagles in a tree

Minnesotans enjoy an annual rite of passage each fall, an explosion of colors in the forests and half the state driving up to the north shore to enjoy the leaves.  Last fall we decided to change it up some and head northwest to take a weekend trip from Bemidji, MN to Big Bog State Recreation area.  This route takes about an hour if you drive straight through, but plan on some extra time for roadside stops to enjoy the scenery and wildlife.

TIP: Check the DNR Fall Color Finder starting in mid-September to decide which area to visit.  Ideally, find an area that is in the 75-100% range

Bemidji sign

Our journey began in the town of Bemidji, MN, the first city on the Mississippi River (New Orleans is the last). We started the morning by checking out the Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox park – This is a great stop to let the kids burn off some energy and then enjoy a nice walk along Lake Bemidji.

After a brisk stroll along the beach, we stopped for breakfast at the Minnesota Nice Cafe.  The cafe was highly recommended by a local and known for its pancakes. The wait time was about 15 minutes, but we can say that after tasting the food, we understood why this little cafe was so popular.  

Red Necked Grebe at Lake Bemidji
Red Necked Grebe at Lake Bemidji

Just outside of town is the Lake Bemidji State Park.  This park offers some great bird watching opportunities with a large variety both in the forest and lake areas.  The image above is of a Red Necked Griebe, an interesting bird that lives mostly in Canada and Alaska, but also in parts of Minnesota.  If you have a bit of extra time, they have a nice 1/4 mile boardwalk (NOTE: there is a 1 mile hike to get to the boardwalk) that leads to a bog where you may see showy lady’s slippers, dragon’s mouth and grass pink (orchids) and carnivorous plants including pitcher plants and sundews.

TIP: Bring binoculars and telephoto lenses to view the wildlife.  Be on the lookout for loons, eagles, and osprey on the lake


River rapids
Calm fall river scene

While Minnesota is noted for its 10,000 lakes (actually its closer to 12,000 of 10+ acres), there are also 6,500 natural rivers and streams.  Fall is a great time to get out and enjoy the rivers.  You can find everything from the quiet serenity of a river that is barely moving to the raw power and roar of rapids, all on the same trip.

Bald Eagle in a tree
Bald Eagle near Big Bog
Grouse in flight
Grouse in flight

The sheer expanse of the Big Bog State Recreation area and the bordering
Red Lake Peatland Scientific and Natural Area were unexpected, occupying nearly 500 square miles. It is the largest peat bog in America that is south of Alaska. A mile-long boardwalk completed in 2005, allows visitors to safely view a small portion of the Red Lake Peatland Scientific and Natural Area.


The area is home to mammals including black bears, deer, gray wolves, fox, bobcat, moose, and others. Unfortunately, we did not see any during this trip. We did however see a variety of birds in the trees and in flight.

Purple Pitcher plant
Purple Pitcher plants

Fauna at the site varies widely from the elegant beauty of orchids to carnivorous plants like the Purple Pitcher Plants pictured above. We look forward to returning in the Spring to see the orchids. especially the Pink Lady Slipper.

TIP: On your way back from the boardwalk, take a few minutes to walk around the rest of Ludlow Pond

Beaver cut  tree
Camping along the Tamarac River
Big Bog Campground – Tamarack river

After spending the day exploring the area, we ended the trip with a relaxing evening at the Big Bog Campground. This small campground has 31 Drive-in campsites and six cabins. While all the sites looked nice, we would recommend one along the river. The Tamarack river was smooth as glass in the morning, allow for some amazing pictures.

TIP: Not sure which route to take for your next fall trip in Minnesota?  Check out the Scenic Fall Color Routes in State Forests site for trip ideas


QUESTION:  Where are some of your favorite fall destinations?